From Yoga in Rishikesh to the Streets of Delhi: A Journey Through India's Soul
- elomoutier
- Apr 3
- 11 min read
In 2022, I spent 1,5 months in « incredible India », as it is often called. I initially went there for my Yoga Teacher Training (YTT) and eventually ended up traveling in different areas of the country.
I spent most of my time in Rishikesh (3 weeks) for my training and my adventure took me to Goa, Varanasi, Khajuraho and Delhi.
Let me guide you through all these places and share a little bit of my own experience in this amazing country.
Rishikesh, the birthplace of Yoga
Rishikesh is definitely one of my favorite places in India. It is located North of Delhi, at the foothills of the Himalayas and by the Ganga river. The city is famous for being the « capital of Yoga », as yoga was born there, about 4000 years ago 🧘♀️.
There, you can find a lot of temples, yoga « ashrams » and spiritual centers.
The vibe of the city definitely reflects its spiritual side and is a really great place for meditation, the practice of yoga and to learn more about Ayurveda in general.
The lush nature combined with the impressive Ganga River, makes it a very beautiful and somewhat peaceful scenery to be in.
Go on a Yoga Retreat
A must in Rishikesh is to go on a retreat. There are plenty for you to choose from, whether you want to experience a Yoga Teacher Training, a full week of meditation or want to go deeper into the wisdom of Ayurveda.
You can check the website BookYogaRetreats where you can browse through many retreats and find the one you like. I personally searched on the site but booked directly with the school I wanted to go to.
I chose to go with Gyan Yog Breath, Nirmal B Block Visthapit Pashulok, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand 249202, India
Visit the famous Beatles ashram
Rishikesh is also known as one of the residence of the very famous English rock band The Beatles in the 70’s. They went on a trip to India in 1968 to learn about transcendental meditation and reconnect with themselves on a deeper level. Following the teachings of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, their visit to the ashram received a lot of media coverage and contributed to a change in Western perception of Indian spirituality. This period was also one of their most prolific in terms of song writing.
The Beatles ashram is now abandoned, but it is possible to visit it. Walking in the deserted village where nature has reclaimed its rights, among the many psychedelic paintings characteristic of the 70s, is truly a unique experience. If, like me, you're a Beatles fan, it is definitely not a place to be missed.
The Beatles Ashram, 4876+4V3, Swarg Ashram, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand 249304, India
Spend a day or more in Rajaji National Park
Rishikesh National Park - Rajaji - is definitely worth a visit.
The reserve is closed during the rainy season, so I was unfortunately unable to visit it, but it is definitely on my bucket list. This paradise for nature lovers is home to many elephants, tigers, leopards, deers and ghorals and spreads over 820 km².
This national treasure offers a wide array of experiences from trekking, wildlife sighting, bird watching to nature photography and deeper immersion into local culture.
Rajaji National Park, Ganga Boghpur Talla Rd, Cheela Dam - Rishikesh Rd, Via, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand 249306, India
Walk around Laxman Jhula
Laxman Jhula is a neighborhood of Rishikesh, located on the east bank of the Ganga River. It is connected to the other side of the city by a bridge, that you can only cross on foot or with a bike.
In this area, you can find many restaurants and cafes, shops, and hotels. This part of the city is a bit more quiet, which makes it easier to stroll around and enjoy the beautiful scenery. There is even a small beach by the Ganga River in which you can bathe in the refreshing water to cool off from the heat. Just be mindful to stay close to the beach as the river flow is very strong and keep your clothes on as it is not allowed to be in a bathing suit in this area.
If you plan to stay in Rishikesh, I would recommend you to find a place to stay in this district. Just be aware that accessing it by car may take longer, as the bridges linking this part of the city to the main road are only accessible on foot.
Here is a massage place and a café that I can recommend you in this area:
Prana (massage), Laxman Jhula Road, Laxman Jhula, opposite Little Buddha Cafe, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand 249137, India.
Good Times Cafe, above DR. K.L. KOTHARI, Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand 249302, India
Goa, the tropical getaway
Goa was once a Portuguese colony, and is one of the only catholic Indian states. The architecture there is quite different than in the rest of the country as well as the vibe, which is generally more laid back.
Goa is also very famous for its yoga retreats and hippie communities, as well as its beautiful beaches and natural sites.
After my training in Rishikesh, I really wanted some time to rest and chill a few days on the beach, which Goa is perfect for.
Stay in Morjim area
This area is definitely my favorite in Goa, it’s a bit more quiet and low key than the other parts of the state.
Goa is one of the only states in India where you can be in your bathing suit and have an easy access to alcohol. During high season, many locals and foreigners travel there to enjoy the numerous beach parties at night and rest in the beautiful resorts during the day.
If you stay in this area, I recommend you to try Arti Massage. They have very qualitative massage options and can arrange a lift from your hotel. They also have a sauna and a beautiful clothing shop. Survey no 128/1Vithal das wado, Morjim, Goa 403512, India
I stayed in jüSTa Morjim Beach Resort Goa. The hotel was very well located,, right across the beach, the rooms were nice and big and the restaurant was delicious. I was there just before the high season started and the pool was being cleaned so we could not use it, so maybe it would be worth checking with them before you book. jüSTa Morjim Beach Resort Goa,Vithaldaswada, Morjim, Goa 403512, India
A really nice place for a nice drink or dinner is the Mayfair on Sea hotel. They have a really cool terrace on which you can see the sun set on the beach, they make really nice food and drinks, and their pool side is very beautiful as well. For a couple thousand rupees, you can even spend the day there, enjoy the pool and the terrace, eat and drink within the fee you paid (we paid somewhere around 2000 rupees each, spent the day there, and ate twice within that fee).
House No, MAYFAIR - on - Sea, 764(E, Gawdewada Rd, Morjim, Goa 403512, India
Go on a Yoga Retreat and visit the flea market
You can find a lot of yoga retreats in Goa as well. I wouldn't know which one to recommend there, but if you want to find a yoga or meditation retreat in Goa, you can always look on the website I previously mentioned. With its beautiful sea side and lush nature settings, I'm sure Goa is an amazing place for a retreat.
While you are in Goa, you should also check out The Anjuna flea market. This hippie stronghold since the 70's and is absolutely amazing for anyone who wants to buy colorful clothes, jewelry, decorations, etc. The market is run on Wednesdays from October to March.
Old Goa
Old Goa was the capital of the Portuguese India and is famous for the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Church of St Cajetan and the Se Cathedral. You can visit all 3 of them easily, since they are in the range of a 10-15mn walking distance.
The city itself is very small and apart from these 3 monuments, there is not much else to visit, so I would say that a total of 1-2 hours is enough.
The site is very beautiful to walk around and the monuments are quite impressive. The drive to get there is also nice, between the old Portuguese houses and churches and the rawness of the jungle.
If you come from the North side of Goa, you can make a stop in Panjim, which is the actual capital of the state. Maybe you can grab a bite there or go shopping, and go for a walk in the cobblestones streets with villas and buildings from the Portuguese colonial era.
Enjoy a nice view at Fort Tiracol
If you want to have a drink or a nice dinner, Fort Tiracol is definitely well worth a visit. This hotel is located in a 16th century Portuguese fort, with the church still intact. The view from the restaurant is absolutely stunning and the place has a very relaxing quiet vibe. You can either go there for the evening or even book a room for a few days.
If you go there by cab and decide to stay only for dinner, I suggest you to pay your driver for the back and forth drive, as there are not many taxis around. Pernem, Taluka, Tiracol, Goa 403524, India
Varanasi, the sacred city
Varanasi is located in North India along the Ganga river.
It is a very spiritual city, which welcomes thousands of pilgrims every year. It counts no less than 3000 temples and the mornings and evenings are punctuated by religious celebrations which you can attend. You have to get up a bit early to see the morning one, as it takes place at sunrise, but I really recommend that you do it, as it is a very important component of the city culture.
Inhabitants of Varanasi often go bathe in the Ganga before or after the morning ceremony.
Varanasi is also called Lord Shiva’s city and is very important in Hindu culture, since it is believed that when you pass away there, you are free from reincarnating on Earth and your soul can finally find peace.
In the Hindu temple Manikarnika Ghat, a big fire, which is said to have been created by Lord Shiva himself, never stops burning. Many families bring their deceased loved ones to this place in order for them to be freed from their bodies.
For Hindus, Varanasi is the holiest of the seven sacred cities.
Varanasi is also a very important and sacred place for buddhists since Buddhism was founded at a place nearby (Sarnath), when Buddha gave his first sermon "Turning the Wheel of the Dharma".
You can visit the holy site of Sarnath, where a huge Stupa is still standing (a structure used as a place of meditation in Buddhism).
I strongly suggest that you book a guide for the day, who will take you to the main sites and temples, as well as the morning and evening ceremonies. There is so much to see and to learn there, that it is one of the places where I think a guide is definitely a must.
The city itself is absolutely stunning and it is very nice to walk around the centre, spot all the beautiful temples and the big mosque, maybe stop for a chai masala (spicy black tea with milk) or a lassi (curd yoghurt drink usually mixed with fresh fruits).
There is a huge university campus in which you can go even if you are not a student and visit some of the temples there. This area is much more quiet and it is very nice to take a stroll there, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Just be mindful that there are a lot of people in the center in general, so it is something to consider before taking a walk. This is pretty safe though, but you have to be in the right mood for it.
If you go to Varanasi, I recommend to spend around 2-3 days there, as there is a lot to see.
If booking a guide for a day is important to understand why Varanasi is such a significant place in Hindu and Buddhist cultures, it is also essential to take some time to feel the vibe of the city by yourself and its unique atmosphere.
Khajuraho, the village of 20 temples
Khajuraho is about 400km west of Varanasi (which is not considered very far in India). There is a small airport there, you can also go by train, or take a cab from Varanasi if you go from there (approximately 8h drive).
This small town is famous for its temples, especially the ones depicting sexual scenes. The UNESCO World Heritage Site counts around 20 temples, each of them covered in statues and carvings. The main one is dedicated to Lord Shiva, as this deity plays a central role in Hinduism. It is essential to book a guide for the tour to understand the scenes depicted on the temples and their meaning in Hindu culture.
The Khajuraho group of monuments is a complex of Hindu and Jain temples and when I was there, some Jain monks were living in a temple of the Southern site. I was able to meet some of them and learn a bit more about their lifestyle.
Jainism is an Indian religion, similar to Hinduism or Buddhism, however it also has aspects of its own. Jains try to reduce the harm to living things as much as possible. They, for example, don't eat root vegetables to prevent hurting insects and microorganisms, the monks don't wear clothes for the same reason, own a minimum of things and avoid walking on the grass or taking medications as not to kill any living thing, even if it is a bacteria.
The monks change their name and detach themselves completely from their family and friends when they start their new life. They mostly walk from temple to temple across India where they are usually fed by the local population. This extreme form of Hinduism is definitely very far from our every day life and it was very interesting to know more about their habits and beliefs.
New Delhi, the big city
New Delhi is the capital of India, with no less than 34 million inhabitants.
The city harbors some of the most beautiful temples in the country and is a great place to depart from for a visit in Agra and the Taj Mahal.
When I was there, I enjoyed staying in a more quiet neighborhood called Haus Khas Village. There, you can find numerous restaurants, massage places, clothing shops and take a stroll in the very lovely deer park.
While in Delhi, a visit to the spice market is not to be missed if you want to see the original center of the city and be inspired by all the different colors and smells. The market is located in Old Delhi, founded in 1648 as a walled city by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan.
One of the must sees in Delhi are the Red Fort and the Lotus temple. While the first one is one of the oldest buildings of the city (counstructed in 1639) and served as the residence for the Mughal emperors, the latter is much more recent and was completed in 1986. Both are absolutely stunning and definitely worth a visit. I unfortunately didn’t have time to visit those during my trip, so they are also on my bucket list for my next trip to India.
Delhi is also the ideal place to book a 3 day trip to Agra (to visit the Taj Mahal) and Jaipur (to visit some of the beautiful palaces of Rajasthan).
India is such a vibrant, spiritual and magical country where tradition meets modern life in the most surprising ways. Being such a big nation, "incredible India" boasts many different atmospheres, landscapes and even cultural heritage and languages.
Whether you like it or want to take the first plane back to your country, India will definitely not leave you indifferent. From a transformative yoga retreat in Rishikesh, to a tropical getaway in Goa, or an amazing discovery of the Hindu culture in Varanasi and Khajuraho, India is definitely a must to experience on this beautiful planet 🌍
Happy travels ✨